Removing the Outer Sill

TR7 Restoration Project, Apr-2013

First thing to do is remove the front wing. This is one of the easiest panels to remove – just drill out the spot welds along the bottom of the sill; remove the bolts inside the door pillar and at the top front where it joins the front panel; cut inside the gutter along the top (you can remove the remnants where the wing joins the gutter later); drill out the spot welds to the windscreen valance; drill out the spot welds along the lip where the wing joins the inner wheel arch and the wing should come off with little resistance.

With the wing out of the way, I drilled out the spot welds along the lower lip and top lip along the door step – this let me remove most of the sill. Removing the front and rear parts of the sill is much more difficult. I unpicked the spot welds and welds around the bottom of the ‘A’ pillar/door post/’A’ panel. There are welds inside and out. The door-post to sill joint area is a real water trap and needs to be substantially rebuilt:

You can’t completely remove the outer sill at the rear until you remove the large ‘B’ post strengther that is fitted to DHCs. The picture shows the remnants of the top of the sill and the rear inner wing that extends down to the bottom of the sill and is welded between the inner and outer sill along the lower lip.

Removing the DHC strengther is a real pain; Its joined to the sill and inner rear wing with spot welds and conventional welds that are very difficult to get at. Once its out of the way you can get at the spot welds joing the rear top of the outer sill to the inner sill and inner rear wing.

With the outer sill completely removed I could make any repairs to the inner sill. This needed the bottom corner at each end repaired and sections of the lower lip: