Replacing The Outer Sill

TR7 Restoration Project, Oct-2013

Removing the old outer sill is by far more difficult than fitting a new one, which is relatively straight forward. Before fitting it, I needed to replace the stiffener that runs from the inside of the B-Post to the bottom of the sill. This is a simple pressing with integral stiffening flutes. I don’t have the facilities to press in the flutes so I made up some right angle sections and welded them to the inside of home made section. This made it as rigid as the original:

Once all other inner sill and rear bulkhead repairs have been done, I re-fitted the door then trial fitted the new outer sill. You just need to make sure that the door to sill and door to A-Post and door to B-Post gaps are parallel. With the sill drilled and prepped, and after a good couple of hours jigglin and a jogglin, I clamped it in its final position:

After a couple of tack welds to hold the sill in position I removed the door then could plug weld as required. I used 50mm spacing between each weld along the long edges. 

The rear top of the sill is welded to the lip of the B-Panel inside the B-Post. This is quite difficult as you have to get in through the aperture on the inside and there’s very little room.

The metal was badly rusted at the bottom of the A-Posts and B-Posts where it joins the top of the sill, so I had to cut this out and make repair plates in all four corners. These would be filled to blend in better just before painting. I tried to get plenty of cavity wax in here later on.